Classic 70-94 Замена резистора Кондиционера и печки RRC

A/C & Heater Blower Motor Resistor for Range Rover Classic 1990 - 1994

Applies To:
Item: PRC8010
Fits: Range Rover Classic | '90 - '94
The A/C and Heater Blower Motor Resistor controls the speed of the blower motor and the force of the airflow out of the dash vents. You select the level from your dash instrument controls, but this resistor is what enables those controls and regulates the power to the blower motor. This Atlantic British exclusive design is actually an improvement over the genuine resistor. It features a thermal-sink aluminum mounting plate that dissipates circuit heat effectively. The genuine version required air cooling available only when the vehicle was moving - sitting idle for any length of time with the heat or A/C on caused the genuine resistor to overheat and fail.
Location: The stock resistor is located under the cowl, just to the left of the right hood hinge. The plug for the resistor is located inside the truck to the right of the heater box.

Tools Required:

• Flat Blade Screwdriver (for prying air intake grill off)
• Long Phillips Screwdriver (10 to 12 inches long, or 1/4 inch drive socket with extension and Phillips bit)
• 1/4 inch drive socket with 12 inch extension and 1/4 inch hex socket (installing PRC8010)

Section I - Replacing the Resistor:
1. Remove the center and right side air intake grills by removing the rectangular covers and pry the grills out. Remove the foam filters.

• You should see the original resistor (it will look different than the improved replacement.)
• It may be necessary to remove the brackets and cross bar for the foam filters to gain access the resistor (drill out the rivets)

2. The resistor is held by two Phillips screws. They can be removed with a long screw driver positioned through the center air intake and through the hole for the right hood hinge. You may find it easier to use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a long extension with a Phillips bit instead of a screwdriver.
3. Once the resistor is free, remove the grommet where the harness goes through the firewall. Then pull the harness until you can access the red plug connector and disconnect the old resistor from the red connector.
4. **Note: On certain vehicles, you may not be able to reach and pull out the red connector harness to disconnect it. If this is the case, You can choose from two alternative installation methods:
Section II - Removing The Dash Top for Installation
or
Section III - Splicing In New Resistor
5. Feed the resistor harness back into the hole and re-install the grommet. Secure the resistor (using the bolts supplied) to the bracket that held the original resistor.
6. Replace the brackets if removed and rivet in place. Re-install the foam filter and the air intake plastic grill.


Instructions

A/C & Heater Blower Motor Resistor for Range Rover Classic 1990 - 1994

Applies To:
Item: PRC8010
Fits: Range Rover Classic | '90 - '94

** Section II - Removing the Dash Top for Access to the Connector (if needed):
Note: On some trucks the harness connector is secured to the main harness inside and you cannot pull the harness out far enough to unplug it. In this case, the dash fascia and dash top will need to come off to provide access to the harness, clip and the tie strap securing it to the main harness. To do this, follow the steps below. Alternatively, if you do not want to remove the dash fascia and top, you can cut the connector wires and splice the wires on to the new replacement resistor (to do this, see section III).
Dash Fascia Removal:
1. Pop out all of the louvers from the fascia. (The fascia and louvers can be seen on photo 13)

Photo 13
2. Locate the screws securing the fascia to the dash (See photos 14 and 15)

Photo 14

Photo 15
3. Remove all 13 screws (photo 16)

Photo 16
4. Unplug the connectors for the clock and mirror controls. (photos 17 and 18)

Photo 17

Photo 18
Note: Vehicles without wood-grain fascia will also need the mirror control switches popped out.
The fascia can now be removed.

** Section II - Removing the Dash Top for Access to the Connector (continued):
Dash Top Removal:
1. Find and mark the 3 screws holding the dash top from underneath (these screws need to be identified so they are not confused with the screw locations for the fascia when you reassemble the dash). The location of these screws is shown in photo 19. Remove these screws.

Photo 19
2. Remove the 4 screws underneath the mat in the right hand recess (behind "grab bar"). (photo 20)

Photo 20
3. Remove the 4 screws underneath the mat in the center of the dash.
This tray will lift up and you can unplug the connector to the alarm
LED. Remove this tray. (photo 21 and 22)

Photo 21

Photo 22
Remove the Instrument Panel by:
4. Snap off the hood covering the rear of the panel
5. Unplug the 3 connectors from the back of the instrument panel (shown in photo 23).

Photo 23
6. Remove the 4 nuts/washers securing the instrument panel from underneath the dash. (location shown in photos 24 & 25)

Photo 24

Photo 25
Note: In some vehicles, the cruise control amplifier needs to be removed from the right hand stud.
7. Lift up the front of the dash top and remove the foam insulation and disconnect the 4 defroster hoses by first clipping the tie wraps holding the hoses in place. (photo 26 shows the rightmost defroster hose)

Photo 26
8. Maneuver the dash top out of place and remove from the vehicle. You will see the red resistor connector as shown in the center of picture 27.

Photo 27
Installing the New Resistor:
1. Remove the old Resistor: The resistor is held by two Phillips screws. Unscrew these screws using a screw driver, unplug the old resistor from the red connector and remove the resistor.
2. Plug the new resistor into the red connector and secure the resistor using the bolts supplied to the bracket that held the original resistor.
3. Re-assemble the dash top and fascia and the job is complete.

Section III - Cutting Out Old Resistor and Splicing In New Resistor
Note: When 'splicing,' it is recommended you solder spliced connections and use heat shrinkable tubing over these connections (wire nut caps are not recommended for splicing.)
Needed for This Process:

• Soldering Iron
• Standard Fluxed Solder
• 1/4" Diameter Heat Shrinkable Tubing (cut into pieces approx. 1 to 1-1/2" in length)
• A Heat Gun

If you prefer not to go through the process of removing the dash fascia and dash top, you can simply cut the wires to the existing resistor and splice them to the new resistor.
The following wiring diagrams show the existing resistor wiring along with the new resistor wiring for comparison:

Existing Genuine Resistor Wiring Diagram

New Atlantic British Resistor Wiring Diagram
1. Cut the wires connecting to the old resistor and strip approx. 1/3 of an inch of wire casing on each end. Ensure you leave ample length on the wires for splicing.
2. Remove the old Resistor: The resistor is held by two Phillips screws. Unscrew these screws using a screw driver.
3. Cut the wires on the new resistor below the connector and strip approx. 1/3 of an inch of casing off each wire. Ensure you leave ample length on the wires for splicing.
4. To splice the connections, feed a piece of shrinkable heat tubing over each wire end on the cut wires. Then, solder the old resistor wire end to the new resistor wire end according to diagram. Position shrinkable tubing pieces over newly soldered connections and apply heat to tubing with heat gun to shrink.
5. Secure the resistor using the bolts supplied to the bracket that held the original resistor.
6. Re-install the grommet in the bulkhead.
7. Re-install the foam filter and the air intake plastic grill.

http://www.roverparts.com/Instructions/RRC_A-C_Heater_Blower_Resistor_PRC8010_1.cfm

 

PRC8010
Посмотреть вложение 803
Посмотреть вложение 804
Посмотреть вложение 805

 

Посмотреть вложение 1521
0.5 Ом 50Вт
1,5 Ом 50Вт
2,0 Ом 50ВТ

 

Осенью у меня вышел из строя реостат печки и кондиционера, вся необходимая информация выше.
Было куплено 3 резистора в магазине ЧИП и ДИП и доставлено в ближайшее отделение ЕВРОСЕТЬ, откуда я их и забрал (540руб).
Далее прикрутил все на монтажную площадку купленную на строительном рынку (45руб).
Снял капот по два болта с каждой стороны. Отсоединил разъем подсветки подкапотного пространства, обогрева омывателей и трубки омывающей жидкости.
Открутил крепление "лыжи" 8 саморезов под дворниками, открутил с боков крепление лыжи к крыльям и по одному саморезу со стороны дверей. Снял поводки стеклоочистителей.
Снял лыжу, далее по фото.
Собираем в обратном порядке.
Посмотреть вложение 1527
Посмотреть вложение 1528
Посмотреть вложение 1529
Посмотреть вложение 1530
Посмотреть вложение 1531
Посмотреть вложение 1532
Посмотреть вложение 1533
Посмотреть вложение 1534

 

Классная работа! Я себе родной поставил. Но это лучше. Кстати, твой старый выглядит очень живым! А номеров этих из чипа и дипа не сохранилось?

 

AH-50, 50 Вт, 2.2 Ом, 5%, Резистор силовой Тайвань 1 × 150.01 150.01
AH-50, 50 Вт, 1.5 Ом, 5%, Резистор силовой Тайвань 1 × 139.99 139.99
AH-50, 50 Вт, 0.47 Ом, 5%, Резистор силовой Тайвань 1 × 139.99 139.99